Sowing Your Seeds

Indoors or outdoors: the simplest way to decide where to start seeds

In cool, short-season climates, the main question is not “can this crop grow here?” but “will it have enough time?” In the table below we provide advice about when to sow your seeds based on your area’s “last frost date”, and where to plant them first:

  • Starting seeds indoors gives you warm soil, steady moisture, and a head start while it is still cold outside.
  • Starting outdoors is easier and often produces stronger root systems for crops that dislike being moved.

A practical rule:

  • Start indoors when the crop is slow, needs warmth, or benefits from a long season (tomatoes, peppers, celery, many brassicas).
  • Start outdoors when the crop grows fast, tolerates cool soil, or hates transplanting (carrots, parsnips, peas, radishes, dill).

CropStart (Indoors/Outdoors)When to startBrief sowing notes
asparagusIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostSlow from seed; many gardeners plant crowns outdoors for faster results.
basilIndoors4–6 weeks before last frostNeeds warmth and light; plant out only when nights are warm.
beansOutdoors1–2 weeks after last frostWarm soil matters; direct sow. Soaking is optional, but not required.
beetrootOutdoors0–2 weeks after last frostDirect sow; thin seedlings for proper roots.
broccoliIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostTransplant out when sturdy; protect from pests early.
brussels sproutsIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostLong season crop; transplant out early for best size.
cabbageIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostTransplants handle cool weather; keep growth steady.
carrotsOutdoors0–4 weeks after last frostDo not transplant; keep seedbed evenly moist for germination.
cauliflowerIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostSensitive to stress; transplant gently and avoid setbacks.
celeryIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostTiny seed; sow on surface, keep moist, needs long indoor time.
chivesIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostEasy; clumps up over time. Can also be divided later.
coriander (cilantro)Outdoors2–4 weeks before last frostBest direct sown; bolts in heat, so sow in waves.
cucumbersIndoors2–4 weeks before last frostFast; don’t start too early. Plant out only when warm.
dillOutdoors0–4 weeks after last frostDislikes transplanting; direct sow and repeat sowings.
fennelOutdoors2-4 weeks after last frostMany types dislike transplanting; direct sow for best roots.
garlicOutdoorsBest in autumn; or early springPlant cloves, not seed. Autumn planting gives bigger bulbs.
kaleIndoors4–6 weeks before last frostVery hardy; transplant out early or direct sow later.
lavenderIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostSlow; keep warm and bright. Some seeds benefit from cold time.
leeksIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostLong season; transplant out while still pencil-thin.
lettuceOutdoors4–6 weeks before last frostCool-loving; sow small batches often for steady harvest.
marjoramIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostSmall seed; warmth and light help.
melonsIndoors3–5 weeks before last frostNeeds heat; plant out late and use shelter if possible.
mintOutdoorsPlant as a plant (spring/summer)Usually propagated from plants; spreads aggressively—contain it.
onionsIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostFrom seed: start early indoors; from sets: plant outdoors in spring.
oreganoIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostSmall seed; slow start, then becomes hardy once established.
pak choiOutdoors2–6 weeks before last frostFast; sow in cool periods to reduce bolting.
parsnipsOutdoors0–2 weeks after last frostSlow to germinate; do not transplant; use fresh seed.
parsleyIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostSlow germination; keep evenly moist and be patient.
peasOutdoors2–6 weeks before last frostLikes cool soil; direct sow early. Support for climbing types.
peppersIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostNeeds warmth and strong light; transplant out late.
potatoesOutdoors2–4 weeks after last frostPlant tubers; “chit” (pre-sprout) indoors for earlier growth.
pumpkinsIndoors3–4 weeks before last frostFast; transplant after warm nights; protect from cold wind.
radishesOutdoors0–6 weeks after last frostVery fast; sow often. Best in cool weather.
rhubarbOutdoorsPlant crowns in spring or autumnUsually planted as crowns/plants; seed is uncommon for home gardens.
rosemaryIndoors10–12 weeks before last frostSlow and heat-loving; many people prefer cuttings over seed.
sageIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostStart indoors; transplant once strong; drought-tolerant later.
shallotsOutdoors2–6 weeks after last frost (or autumn)Usually planted as sets/bulbs; needs a long season to size up.
spinachOutdoors2–6 weeks before last frostCold-tolerant; sow early and repeat sowings for steady leaves.
spring onionsOutdoors0–4 weeks after last frostDirect sow; thin for size; can also start indoors for extra-early.
squashIndoors3–4 weeks before last frostSame approach as pumpkins; do not let seedlings get root-bound.
steviaIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostSmall seed; warmth + light; plant out only in warm weather.
sweetcornOutdoors2–4 weeks after last frostIndoor start helps in cool climates; transplant carefully when warm.
swedes (rutabaga)Outdoors0–4 weeks after last frostDirect sow; thin well; steady growth gives best roots.
tarragonOutdoorsPlant as a plant (spring/summer)French tarragon is usually a plant, not seed; grow in a warm spot.
thymeIndoors8–10 weeks before last frostTiny seed; slow start; needs light and patience.
tomatoesIndoors6–8 weeks before last frostWarm germination and strong light; plant out after frost and cold nights.
turnipsOutdoors0–6 weeks after last frostFast; direct sow; best in cool weather.

How to use this in real life

If you only remember one thing: Start indoors for long-season warmth lovers and slow growers; sow outdoors for quick cool-season crops and anything that dislikes transplanting. Add simple protection (fleece, cloches, low tunnel) and you can often shift outdoor sowing earlier without risking everything.